Archives for Crafts category
Okay, maybe we don’t think of them as brooches anymore, but that is what they are. Take some beads and some safety pins and make yourself something pretty. I ran across this idea at About dot com while looking for something interesting to share with my readers.
http://familycrafts.about.com/od/cookingtheme/a/bspwatermelon.htm
Although they don’t show you what the finished product looks like, they do offer a picture of the pattern. I always prefer to see the finished product so that I can decide if the project is worthwhile or not. But I have always liked jewelry made of safety pins; it just seems amazing to me how useful items can be put together to make something pretty. Most of the fun is in the doing.
If you enjoyed this post, make sure you subscribe to my RSS feed!
May 12, 2010 | | Crafts
Here is another craft project where plastic bags can be utilized. It’s a dog bed made out of the pesky plastic shopping bags. I got this straight from About dot com.
Materials Needed:
- Plastic grocery bags
- Pillowcase or tee shirt
- String
Instructions:
Fill a pillowcase with the plastic bags, and tie it closed using the string (trim the string ends as short as you can). If you can sew, you can sew the neck and sleeves of a t-shirt closed, fill it with plastic bags, and then sew the bottom closed. You may want to sew in a zipper so more bags can be added as needed.This craft can also be made into a pillow for the kids, sit-upons, etc. ‘Just’ said she had so many bags that she made a bean bag chair out of bags instead of beans!
If you enjoyed this post, make sure you subscribe to my RSS feed!
May 12, 2010 | | Dog Bed
Now days it’s all about the greenery. This picture represents just one idea for going green; how to use plastic bags for something useful. I usually toss mine in the garbage can, but sometimes I just throw them in a corner, thinking I’ll reuse them for carrying items to and from bagless grocery stores. Here is the link to this craft for plastic hats.
If you enjoyed this post, make sure you subscribe to my RSS feed!
May 12, 2010 | | Crafts
Oh my goodness, I had no idea that you could make aprons from dishtowels. I found one however, and you can click this apron link to go and see what it is all about. This sounds very easy to me and that’s just my cup of tea when it comes to doing things. The reason for this is that the less time I sit around wondering if I’m doing it right and wasting it, then the happier I am.
If you enjoyed this post, make sure you subscribe to my RSS feed!
Mar 05, 2009 | | Sewing
I bought myself a sewing machine 11/28/08 because I got the sew bug. This is not the usual for me at all. I decided that I wanted some aprons to wear in the kitchen to protect my clothing when I cooked. So I hightailed it on down to Wal-mart and picked out a pattern that I liked. Unfortunately I forgot about how hard corners were and this one was rounded at the bottom. And as I recalled, it was difficult. But for first try after 20 years of not sewing, it turned out okay. But this particular apron would be a lot easier to make. I’m only giving the link from it so that you can visit this page and follow their instructions. Here’s the apron.
If you enjoyed this post, make sure you subscribe to my RSS feed!
Mar 05, 2009 | | Clothing, Sewing
This is a very simple project that can be adapted to suit the materials you have on hand.I used a snugly polar fleece for this because polar fleece does not fray which will insure this pillow is durable.
You can use any type of fabric, but Lycra or knit fabrics will work best as they also do not fray.
I used a large cushion insert for this that I bought ready made you can use a pillow insert of any shape or just use loose filling.
Start by deciding on the size of your cushion, if you are using a insert then you need to lay your cushion insert onto your fabric and measure a 10 cm hem larger then the insert and cut it out. This will become the tassels for tying later.
You need to cut out 2 of these one for each side of the pillow case.
No matter what shape your pillow is just remember make it 10cms larger then the insert and you can’t go wrong.
If you are using loose filling then cut out your fabric to your desired size and shape. You will need 2 of these one for each side of the pillow.
Using sharp scissors cut a fringe of around 2cms wide and 10cms in length all the way around your pillow shape.
You will need to do this to both sides of the pillow. To save time you can pin the two sides together and cut them together.
Next you need to close up your pillow. Do this by starting in one corner and tying one fringe from each side of the pillow together into a knot. (see above picture) this will join both sides. Continue to do this till you have knotted up all 3 sides.
Insert your filling or cushion insert then close up the top of the pillow by finishing off the knots.
You have finished your very easy pillow cover.
If you enjoyed this post, make sure you subscribe to my RSS feed!
Feb 19, 2009 | | Sewing
How do you like this pattern? It looks like it will take an awful lot of work and great attention to detail in order to get this one to look as wonderful as it looks in this photo.
Materials and Tools:
fabric – four 1/2-yard pieces for stars; 3/4 yard for border; 1/4 yard for binding
rotary cutter
quilter’s ruler
cutting mat
Figure ASteps:
1. Use your computer to help pick fabric colors. Fill in the design with different colors to decide the best strategy for your quilt.
2. For the 12 inch center star, cut:
one 6-1/2″ square (center)
four 3-1/2″ x 6-1/2″ rectangles (background)
eight 3-1/2″ squares (star points)
four 3-1/2″ squares (corners)
3. For the surrounding 24″ large star, cut:
four 6-1/2″ x 12-1/2″ rectangles (background)
eight 6-1/2″ squares (star points)
four 6-1/2″ squares (corners)
4. For the cornerstone stars, cut:
four 3-1/2″ squares (centers)
sixteen 2″ x 3-1/2″ rectangles (background)
thirty-two 2″ squares (star points)
sixteen 2″ squares (corners)
5. For the borders, cut:
four 6-1/2″ x 24-1/2″ border strips
Stitching Tip
It’s very important to use a 1/4-inch seam allowance for this quilt. If you’re teaching someone, have them sew a trial seam and measure it to ensure it’s the right size. If necessary, put a piece of masking tape on the machine to use as a 1/4-inch seam allowance guide.
Star Points
These instructions are the same for all star points in the quilt.
6. With right sides together, fold a star point square cut in step 3 in half diagonally, creating a triangle shape. Press by placing the iron flat against the seam. Don’t move the iron around. Just let the heat of it press the piece.
7. Open up the pressed star point fabric and place it right sides together with a background square. Pin and sew down the crease. If desired, prepare then chain piece all star points to save time. Trim off the excess fabric, leaving a 1/4-inch seam allowance.
Figure B8. Open up the block stitched in step 6. Pin on a second star point square (with a center diagonal crease) right sides together. Stitch down the crease and trim excess leaving a 1/4-inch seam allowance. Flip open to expose the star point. Note: The seams will cross at the point because of the seam allowance.
Figure CPiecing
9. Sew a star point to both sides of the center square with a 1/4-inch seam allowance. Sew corner squares to either side of the top and bottom star point units. Sew the three sections together to complete the 12-inch center star.
10. Sew corner pieces to either side of two of the star points. Sew remaining star points to both sides of the 12-inch center star, rendering three units. Stitch the three units together to finish the design.
Figure D11. Sew a border strip to the top and bottom of the large center unit. Sew a star cornerstone to the top and bottom of the two remaining border strips. Stitch the expanded border strips to either side of the center unit.
12. Make a sandwich from the quilt top, batting and backing, then baste with needle and thread, water-soluble quilt basting spray (in a well-ventilated area) or quilting safety pins. Mark the top with your choice of marking tool and quilt as desired. (The featured quilt used echo quilting, mimicking the star design.) Trim batting and stitch on binding.
Simply Quilts Tips:
When choosing blocks for novices, fewer seams mean less frustration.
Rotary cutters make many techniques possible, but can be dangerous when used improperly. Make sure your students know the rules of rotary cutting, including:
> Always close the rotary cutter when you set it down.
> Always cut away from the body, across the width of the fabric.
> Keep hands and fingers out of the way of the cutter and on the quilter’s ruler to secure it.
> Make sure the blade in the cutter is sharp and use a proper cutting mat.
If you enjoyed this post, make sure you subscribe to my RSS feed!
Feb 18, 2009 | | Quilting
This quilt is gorgeous and depending upon the material used to make it with, can look everyday country or delicate and dressy. But I do not recommend this quilt for beginners to try. There are many pictures that show the various steps but some beginners may get confused.
The block is basically a 9-patch with five small, eight-point stars set in the corners and center and four quarter-square triangles set in between. For each star units in the block, cut (five times):
4, 1-1/2″ squares (light fabric) for the corners
12, 1-1/2″ squares (dark fabric) for connectors
4, 4-1/2″ x 2-1/2″ rectangles (light fabric)
2, 2-1/2″ squares (light fabric) for the center
Figure A1.
Fold the connector blocks in half on the diagonal, wrong sides of the fabric together. Unfold and place the “scored” connector onto one corner of a 4-1/2″ x 2-1/2″ rectangle, right sides together and stitch it down along the fold line (figure A).
Figure B
Cut away the middle piece of fabric (figure B).
Figure C2.
Add another square to the other side of the rectangle and trim to render a Flying Geese unit (figure C). Repeat to make four of these units for one star block.
Figure D3.
For the center unit, sew connector squares to each corner of the 2-1/2″ square and trim away the middle in same manner as described in step 1 (figure D).
Figure E4.
Construct the star in a 9-patch configuration, stitching a 1-1/2″ square to either side of a Flying Geese unit for the top and bottom row and two Flying Geese to either side of the center unit for the middle row (figure E).
Figure F5.
Make four quarter-square units measuring 4″. To make them, cut four, 5-1/4″ squares from the dark fabric and four, 5-1/4″ squares from the light fabric. Pair the squares off, stacking a dark square on top of a light square with rights sides together. Draw a line down the diagonal of the top square and stitch 1/4″ away from either side of the line. Cut on the drawn center line. If you want to press at this point, press the light to the dark. A quick finger press should suffice. Stack the units on top of one another with the colors in the opposite direction (figure F).
Figure G
“Lock” the seams together. Draw another line opposite of the stitched diagonal, stitch 1/4″ away from it on either side, and cut on the line. Unfold to reveal the finished unit (figure G).
Tip: To use this shortcut for other quarter-square triangle blocks, add 1-1/4″ to the finished outside edge (the one that’s adjacent to the angle) to know what size to cut your square.
Figure H6. Assemble the block in 9-patch formation as shown (figure H). Stitch the top row to the middle row to the bottom row.
If you enjoyed this post, make sure you subscribe to my RSS feed!
Feb 18, 2009 | | Quilting
This pattern is for a 36-inch (90cm)wide door. If your door is wider, adjust measurements to match.Start by cutting a rectangle of your fabric to measure 8 x 41 inches (20cm x 1mt). Sew the two long edges together to form a 4 inch (10cm) tube making sure that you are sewing on the wrong side of the fabric as we will turn it right way later.
Sew one of the 4 inch (10cm) ends closed using double stitches on your machine.
Turn the tube right side out so that you can now see the right side of the fabric. Use a yard stick to push all corners out and smooth.
Pour the kitty litter into the tube. Leave 1-inch from the top end empty. Turn in 1/2-inch of raw edges on the end. Top stitch this seam closed.
If you enjoyed this post, make sure you subscribe to my RSS feed!
Feb 17, 2009 | | Crafts, Door Draft Stoppers
In the autumn, I begin laying beach towels against the inside of exterior doors to stop drafts. This year, I’ve decided to recycle some material and leave the towels in the cabinet. Would you like to make a draft stopper for a door or window? Here is how I made an Evergreen Draft Stopper and a Sand Draft Stopper.Materials
dried evergreen tips, play sand, or kitty litter
yard stick
tightly woven fabric (45? x 8?)
scissors
sewing machine and thread
Reusing fabric and Collecting the Stuffing
For fabric, I raided the rag bag and decided the legs of a pair of slacks would be great! Sand and Kitty Litter seem to be the most energy efficient stuffers. In our area, however, sand isn’t available in the back yard and we don’t have a cat. So for practical (and fun) reasons, I started with something at hand. Read the rest of this entry »
If you enjoyed this post, make sure you subscribe to my RSS feed!
Feb 17, 2009 | | Crafts, Door Draft Stoppers
